About Stuart McAleese

I am an IFMGA Mountain Guide, Climber and Alpinist originally from North Cumbria and now based in Llanberis, North Wales. I first started climbing when I was 15, mainly on indoor climbing walls, but then soon was climbing on the crags of the Lake District. My first proper job was working as a trainee Instructor at an Outdoor Activities Centre called Howtown, Ullswater, in the North Lakes. Here I was really inspired by working with some top Mountain Instructors and IFMGA Mountain Guides.

I was rock climbing most of time by the age of 20 and it was then that I first started climbing in the Alps. Soon after this, climbing with friends took me to Europe and the United States, including Yosemite, California. I worked on gaining the Mountain Instructor qualifications, MIA and MIC, and completed the MIC in 2000. My Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing continued in the Alps every year, summer and winter. After three years of Training and Assessments I qualified as an IFMGA Guide in 2008.

Working and climbing throughout the mountains and cliffs of the UK, I was fortunate enough to work at Glenmore Lodge (National Mountain Training Centre for Scotland) as an Instructor for a winter season. I worked as a Senior Instructor at Plas y Brenin (National Mountain Training Centre for England and Wales) in Capel Curig, North Wales for 14 years, during that period I operated in Wales, Scotland and the Alps.

Alongside extensive climbing and mountaineering in the Alps over the years I have been fortunate enough to climb on expeditions, exploring the remote and challenging mountains of the world. Places such as Patagonia, Alaska, the Himalaya, Baffin Island and Peru. In 2004 I was nominated for the prestigious Piolet d’Or Award. This was for a new route that I climbed with Mike Turner and Olly Sanders in Alaska. A first ascent and a first British ascent of the mountain, we named our route the ‘Supa Dupa Couloir’. The most recent Expedition was to Baffin Island where we climbed a new route over 21 days. A first ascent, we called the route ‘Arctic Monkeys’.

Working as a Mountain Guide I now spend my time between the UK and the Alps rock climbing, mountaineering or Alpinism. A large part of my work in the UK involves Training and Assessment Courses for other Instructors at ML, WML, MIA and MIC – the UK Mountain Training qualifications. As a climber I class myself as an all rounder operating in most disciplines of climbing whether it be rock or ice climbing, Big Wall climbing, an expedition to Alaska, North Face climbing or bouldering. I have lectured for Kendal Mountain Film festival, Edinburgh Film Festival and various Climbing and Mountaineering events throughout the UK.